They never do.
But I took the waitress' advice and got the sopa de mariscos (I may have a hard preference for all things porcine, but I'm in a fishing village after all!) and it was spectacular.
A tomatoey broth stuffed with perfectly tender bits of octopus, oyster, and shrimp (and maybe something else) was topped off with all the limes they gave me but one, cilantro, the odd onion (more accident than anything else) and an stupid enormous glug of the habanero salsa none of the Mexicans seem to think I can handle (which turned out to be precisely the right amount).
El Sazon Jarocho. On the non-beach side.
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