My sea legs

It seems to have taken me almost two full weeks to get my sea legs here in Rome. I'm not sure, but I think that can be partly attributed to the sheer volume of cultural/historical sights to be seen. It really throws me off my game. But I now have a very good sense of the city and seem to be eating particularly well at every opportunity.

I had both exceptionally good food and an exceptionally good experience at these restaurants:

Colline Emiliane

The aforementioned non-starred restaurant was lovely and delicious. The owner took a while to come around, but when I used my broken Italian and kept eyeing her desserts, she totally did. Also, her lemon cream pie with meringue was strange and amazing.

Didn't hurt that my waiter complemented my Italian when I was paying the cheque.

Nonna Betta

My first meal in the Jewish Ghetto was equally amazing and totally fun. It was (maybe?) my first reservation made by phone, and the joint was not only hopping but practically throbbing.

Also, two menus (one meat, one dairy - I ate off the dairy menu, but it's totally kosher (in a manner of speaking) to mix and match).