Day 7 in NOLA - feeling no pain

Day seven saw me wolf down a little breakfast (thank you, Rouses) before hightailing it over to the upper 9th ward to join a second line.

Technically, I suppose, I didn't really join the second line, because there wasn't really one. What I did was attend a jazz funeral. The mass was held at Our Lady Star of the Sea church and the parade led around the block and down to St Roch cemetery. It was beautiful, though there wasn't much dancing to speak of (it was a bitterly cold day).

Benny Jones Sr. (the gentleman to the right - the man to his left is Uncle Lionel) is the band leader, and a finer ambassador for the city you couldn't find. He's the leader of the Treme Brass Band (which even before hearing I felt I had an affinity for, staying as I am in Treme). I still can't believe I got to join a second line(ish). Benny is amazing, not to mention hospitable. He gave me a ride home (he was going to Two Sisters, the soul food joint around the corner from me), and we swung by the Candlelight Lounge so I could see where they play on Wednesdays (I'll be there).

After I went home and changed (it really was that cold), I decided to hit another traditional New Orleans classic. I went to Antoine's. I had baked oysters with cognac garlic cream. I had chicken with Brabant potatoes (basically cubed potatoes fried with butter and garlic - go figure) and peas in a garlicky sauce (my waiter, James, agreed that mushrooms, which are supposed to be in the dish, are an abomination, so we managed to have them omitted) (and yes, it is the kind of place where you have your own personal waiter, and you don't make reservations for a table - you make reservations for your waiter). Finally, I had chocolate mousse (as I've had enough bread pudding this week to last me a lifetime).

But what I also had were the martinis. Who knew I liked martinis? I really like $0.25 martinis is what I like... I had five. Five was admittedly too many, but you live you learn. I started with a cajun martini, which was nice, but then I had a lemon drop, and it really was as sweet and tart and delicious as a lemon drop. I had several of those. I also had a peach martini, but really can see no reason not to stick with lemon drops.

Go Saints. James has tickets to the game tomorrow. I'm cheering for them, for him (and for this whole fine city)